The word “organic” is used in gardening and framing means simply using only fertilizer and insecticides that come from plants or animals. Whether you grow fruits or vegetables, whether you got only 3 three square feet or 3 acre. Here I am going to explain about how to prepare and improve your soil to get the best results for your plants.
Strong, healthy plants requires fertile, healthy soil. Chemical fertilizers destroy the microorganisms and worms that are required to make your top soil rich and fertile.
Its myth that organically grown fruits and vegetables are smaller or have more insect or diseases. The truth is the healthy plant grown in healthy soil will ward of diseases’ and insects with very little help from us.
Organic gardeners feed their soil instead of their plants. Well-fed and cared for soil is full of tiny living organisms that feed your plants so you don’t have to. Plants growing in well-fed soil are also naturally problem resistant.
Guidelines for building healthy soil
- Establish permanent walkways and don’t walk on planting areas.
- Test and adjust the soil’s pH.
- Add abundant amount of organic matter.
- Add specific nutrients if soil test indicates
- Till only when needed.
- Don’t use Synthetic fertilizers of herbicides.
Adding organic Matter
Organic matter is anything that was once alive. In nature, plant and animal waste (organic matter) falls to the ground and breaks down slowly, providing nutrients for new plants and animals. Organic gardeners manage their gardens to mimic this natural nutrient recycling.
Spreading straw or shredded leaf milch around your plant is a good way to add some organic matter and slowly release nutrients to the soil. Growing a “green manure” or “cover crop” in the off season also adds organic matter and protects soil from corrosion. Winter cereal rye and buckwheat are two common choices.
But most gardeners count on compost and/or blended organic fertilizer for most of their organic matter. Compost is crumbly, sweet-smelling, perfect pre-planting fertilizer for vegetables.
To Add organic matter and nutrients, spread one of the following each spring before planting:
- 100 to 100 pounds of compost per 100 sq feet.
- 50 pounds of alfalfa, soybean or fish meal; plus 4 pounds of rock phosphate; plus 1 pound of kelp mean per 100 sq feet.
Adding specific nutrients.
If your soil is low in one particular nutrient, sprinkle a few hand full of one of the organic source below over each 100 square feet of soil.
Phosphorous. Granite meal (4% phosphorous) or rock Phosphate (30% phosphorous).
Potassium. Greensand (7 % potassium) or sul-po-Mag (22% magnesium).
Calcium: Bonemeal ( 24%calcium), Gypsum (22% calcium) limestone ( 50-80% calcium). Oystershell lime (96%calcium) or wood ashes (35 % calcium).
Magnesium. Epsom salts ( 10 % magnesium), limestone( 3-40% magnesium) or sul-po-mag (10% magnesium).
Working with soil
Soil should have a sponge like texture, with plenty of small air spaces. 
Frequent tilling or tilling when the soil is very wet or very dry, will harm the sponge. Squeeze a handful of soil in your hand before you start. If you can squeeze water out of it. The sol is too wet to till. Wait a few days and feel again. If you can’t feel any moisture, dot till. Give the area a good soaking, and feel it again the next day. A spreading fork is good for small gardens and permanent garden beds, Turn over the top 4 to 6 inches, break up the clods into ½ inch pieces , and remove any large rock. Loosen the lower soil by inserting the form as deeply as you can and rocking it back the forth every few inches. A power tiller is easier for large areas, at least for the first season.
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